I’m used to rhubarb baked into cobblers, crisps and crumbles, however it additionally shines when it’s handled as a savory ingredient, like in Naz Deravian’s khoresh rivas, a vegetarian model of the large, comforting spring stew usually made with lamb. Right here, rhubarb cooks down on a mattress of beans simmered with fried parsley and mint, going delicate and tender within the steam of the pot, however maintaining its colour and superb tang.
This isn’t a fast dish — it takes a while to prep and fry the parsley and mint, and to fry the onions and simmer the beans. However the result’s beautiful, extra like a Assertion Bean, a Celebration Bean, a Social gathering Bean! And if you happen to’re utilizing dried beans as an alternative of canned, you need to use two cups of that cooking water to provide the braise much more depth.
If you need a sooner meal, and also you just like the softly candy and savory flavors of stir-fried tomato and eggs, I wish to introduce you to Hetty McKinnon’s tofu and tomato egg drop soup.
The soup is fast, and also you make it by seasoning a can of crushed tomatoes with fried scallions and ginger, ketchup, and sesame oil. Whereas the minimize tofu is bobbing in there, drizzle in some overwhelmed eggs. It’s substantial sufficient for a hefty, end-of-the-day meal, heat and comfy and filled with protein. Although if you happen to occur to do business from home, it could possibly be a very nice lunch to make for your self on a dreary day (it comes collectively in simply quarter-hour).
Right here’s one other glorious lunch: fried tofu with mixed grains. Samin Nosrat, who wrote about how she made this usually in a co-working area, lately informed me that it’s nonetheless her favourite approach to prepare dinner tofu. The dish is so spare, and the ingredient listing so quick, you is perhaps suspicious at first! However soaking medium-firm tofu in liquid aminos, then frying it in coconut oil boosts its taste and makes essentially the most of its custardlike texture. For one thing so fundamental, it’s unexpectedly luxurious.
Mara’s Tofu With Mixed Grains
One Extra Factor!
In case you missed it, earlier this week, The Veggie hosted its first digital occasion (watch the playback here). The New York Occasions Meals editor Emily Weinstein, and the writer and chef Samin Nosrat, each joined me to speak in regards to the joys of vegetarian residence cooking. Readers dropped in stay to ask questions, and I discussed just a few books whereas we have been chatting:
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“Classic Indian Vegetarian Cookery” by Julie Sahni. This got here up when a reader needed to know why her home made saag paneer didn’t stay as much as restaurant variations. Sahni’s model is much less about cream and butter, which eating places usually lean on, and extra in regards to the texture and seasoning of the greens, with the luxuriousness coming from the fried paneer itself (although you may drizzle ghee all around the prime in order for you it additional buttery).
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“East: 120 Vegan and Vegetarian Recipes From Bangalore to Beijing” by Meera Sodha. It is a actually nice assortment of recipes from one in all my favourite cooks and recipe writers. The curries and noodle dishes are notably rewarding, and I really like how Sodha has fast concepts for cooking from pantry staples, too.
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“Veggie Burgers Every Which Way” by Lukas Volger. This got here up as a result of a reader was on a veggie-burger journey, studying to make one that might stand as much as the grill. There are such a lot of issues to consider: drying out substances as a lot as potential earlier than making the patty, taking part in with the dimensions and binder. That is the ebook for anybody seeking to experiment and obtain one thing very particular with their patties, however it’s additionally an amazing common useful resource for concepts.
Thanks for studying The Veggie. Fast be aware: Final week, my editor Tanya Sichynsky stepped in to reply reader questions, together with one about avoiding nightshades, and by chance pointed towards a gnocchi recipe made with potatoes (a nightshade).
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