Hoagies are synonymous with Philadelphia, proper? Not if you happen to ask locals in Delaware County, the place the DiCostanza household has been making sandwiches on lengthy rolls layered with Italian meats, sharp provolone and greens since 1925, when a gambler from Palermo’s bar wandered into their close by grocery retailer in Chester’s West Finish and requested “Mother” (a.okay.a. Catherine DiCostanza) to make him one thing particular.
That’s simply one in every of a half a dozen hoagie origin tales, in fact, together with the ever-popular idea that the sandwich and title descend from the lunches of World Battle I shipbuilders on Hog Island (the place Philadelphia Worldwide Airport now stands, sure, on Tinicum Island, Delaware County). None have been definitively confirmed. What is definite is that the DiCostanza household nonetheless makes hoagies almost a century later, now in Boothwyn.
» READ MORE: Cross the county line to explore Delco’s underrated dining scene
It’s additionally evident from even an off-the-cuff drive down MacDade Boulevard — the place decades-old unbiased sandwich retailers dot the panorama each couple blocks, that this sandwich tradition rooted within the Italian immigrant custom remains to be going robust in Delco — hoagies stay one of many main meals teams. Delconians even have their very own hoagie type, with a requisite heft and a prime layer of meat (“the Delco meat wrap”) that typically sheaths the roll’s opening in a layer of chilly cuts, virtually all the time pepper ham.
“We need to present Philly up so we put extra on there,” jokes Dave Avicolli of Ro-Lynn Delicatessen in Brookhaven, which builds its sandwiches with each prime and backside layers.
Avicolli’s swagger is well-earned. The varied sandwiches I tasted from Ro-Lynn simply rank among the many greatest I’ve had from any hoagie store throughout the Philadelphia area. Nevertheless it wasn’t a Delco fluke. I visited 9 well-regarded retailers throughout the county and introduced a aromatic feast of hoagies, cheesesteaks and specialty sandwiches to our associates Dave and Nika Haase’s dwelling in Swarthmore for a Delco Hoagie Showdown, full with beers from Aston’s 2SP and Media’s Sterling Pig to guarantee correct terroir with the beverage pairings.
We had a blast, and positively had our favorites. However there was hardly a foul sandwich within the lot.
Dave Avicolli and Steve Yancey began as youngsters at this Italian deli based in 1965 by the Carmolino household, then purchased it in 1988. They’ve since become a sandwich shrine that rises on high quality components (extra imported meats than most Delco retailers; seeded Liscio’s rolls) and no shortcut preparations, just like the house-dried and grated bread crumbs that elevate their juicy-yet-crisp cutlets to cult standing. Undoubtedly strive the cutlet particular with broccoli rabe, roast peppers and provolone. However Ro-Lynn’s signature Italian, the Godfather, can also be a standout within the style, graced with actual Parma prosciutto, recent roasted peppers and a seeded roll anointed with extra-virgin olive oil.
📍3407 Edgmont Ave., Brookhaven, 📞 610-872-9575; 🌐 rolynndeli.com
I liked the additional pop of the pepper shooters full of provolone and prosciutto that lend a zesty spark to the Previous Italian at this Newtown Sq. standby opened by Michael and Traci Carneglia in 1995, who got here from South Philly and South Jersey and launched Delco to the idea of seeded rolls. Michael’s younger coaching as a butcher informs the handmade high quality right here, with all meats minimize in home, together with a steamship of prime roast beef that gives all of the deep and juicy savor their crusty rolls can maintain.
📍3523 West Chester Pike, Newtown Sq., 📞 610-353-4543; 🌐 acutabovedeli.com
The classic vibes are palpable at this 91-year-old sandwich store, based in 1931, the place the home T-shirts set the sandwich file straight (“It’s not a sub, it’s a hoagie”) and the fourth-generation crew nonetheless will get it proper on the roll. These had probably the most handmade really feel of the sandwiches we ate on MacDade, with a virtually ripe tomato (in January!) and imported meats within the combine, in addition to a cheesesteak with ribbon-cut beef (vs. the extra frequent positive chop) that allowed each the standard of the meat and sweetness of onions to shine via. Takeout solely.
📍601 MacDade Boulevard, Folsom, 📞 610-461-9194; 🌐 mikeandemmassandwichshop.com
Debbie Morrison, the goddaughter of a LaSpada member of the family, owns the longest-running location of the independently operated three-branch chain, and her Italian hoagie hit all of the basic notes of the MacDade Boulevard type — hearty however nicely balanced, whose oregano-dusted veggies had been topped with a pepper ham wrap that that went straight from slicer to the bread. The finely chopped cheesesteak, with well-seasoned meat and absolutely melted in cheese, was additionally very stable. Additionally my go-to spot for hoagie dip.
📍1002 MacDade Boulevard, Milmont Park, 📞 610-461-9023; 🌐 laspadasonmacdade.com
The “dwelling of the 18 incher!” is certainly a bang-for-your buck haven the place one massive sandwich may most likely feed the entire Sharon Hill Excessive College basketball crew. I’m normally cautious of jumbo sandwiches, however these had been all well-built from first rate, recent components, with a basic pepper ham lid on its hoagie and an overflowing steak that contained presumably extra cheese than meat.
📍1403 Chester Pike, Folcroft, 📞 610-586-1199; 🌐 leossteakshop.com
Liberty is a no frills, cash-only sandwich hang-out, however nonetheless builds its sandwiches methodically. “This ain’t Subway, we don’t use pre-sliced meat right here,” the counterman instructed me as I watched him work, fastidiously looking for simply the prime bits of non-brown iceberg to offer our sandwich its recent crunch. The completed merchandise had been solidly MacDadian, from the pepper ham meat wrap atop the ample hoagie to the finely chopped, absolutely cheesed steak.
📍1937 MacDade Blvd., Woodlyn, 📞 610-872-9304; 📷 instagram.com/libertysteaksandhoagies
No, they don’t make hoagies. However I nonetheless wanted to cease by this cheerful road meals basic in Milmont Park (est. 1932) which sells an impressive roast pork and a candy sausage-pepper sandwich we’d return for. Habitués brag concerning the recent burgers, too, however, oddly, the Texas Tommy scorching canine was a disappointment.
📍401 W. MacDade Blvd., Milmont Park, 📞 610-915-3777; 🌐 the-hot-dog-stand.yolasite.com:
I worth the historical past of any household enterprise that’s been at it so long as this OG hoagie maker, which dates to 1925. Our go to to the present location simply off I-95, nonetheless, encountered a few of the least-remarkable sandwiches of the week.
📍1930 Market St, Boothwyn, 📞 610-494-3616; 🌐 dicostanzasandwiches.com
There’s an admirable stage of high quality to the components one would possibly count on from one of many space’s premier gourmand meals markets. However excessive quantity demand isn’t form to the sandwich artwork, particularly when it leads to pre-packed hoagies within the fridge case. Made recent to order, our turkey hoagie may have been improbable. Sadly, our grab-and-go sandwich was dry and falling aside.
📍713 S. Chester Rd., Swarthmore, and 211 State St, Media, 📞 610-328-7211 (Swarthmore); 610-565-8320 (Media), 🌐 the320marketcafe.com
